A Passion for Fabric & Haberdashery: Great Stores & Sources



Are you obsessed with fabric too? So many people I know have become what my friend calls 'mad habers' (short for haberdashers); the kind of people who spend hours in fabric stores, pondering trimmings and going glazed-eyed for vintage ribbons (and all the other things you find in fabulous old Parisian merceries).


We learned to sew at school – we had the most ferocious sewing mistress who made us unpick if something was a mm out of line! – but I can't remember being as fascinated with fabrics as I am now. 

Just try wandering around the Garment District of New York where stores sell off-cuts and remnants from the collections of Armani, Oscar de la Renta, Vera Wang, Ralph Lauren and other design names, and you'll see how people develop a following for fabrics. (NB There are lots of entries on the best fabric stores in the new New York Guide.)

Even the window displays, such as this one in London (above) are incredibly creative examples of pins and imagination.


The Cabbages & Roses Summer Brocante in the countryside near Bath in England last month was a haber's heaven because half the marquees had exquisite fabric displays. This lady was selling vintage indigo linen.


A favourite fabric source is Tricia Guild's Designers Guild store on King's Road in Chelsea, London. If you love fabric and trimmings in all shades, colours and textures, this is the place to go. In fact, it's difficult to resist buying anything in this store (and it's not cheap), but if you're on a budget they do have off-cuts and small pieces for sale. 

I bought these beautiful Designers Guild fabrics one afternoon, pictured above with some vintage ribbons, a painting from a vintage store and a first edition book of Diana Cooper's biography signed by Diana Cooper from John Sandoe bookstore. That was a lovely day's shopping.


Here's the cobalt-blue and purple hydrangea Designers Guild print on our bedhead (above). 

(NB For a cheap bedhead, grab some some MDF, some thick foam and a nail gun one rainy night!)


Here's the pretty powder-blue velvet fabric, which is called Calaggio in Cerulean and is from one of Designers Guild's new collections. It's a beautifully tactile velvet in a botanical print, and looks like something you'd find at Marie Antoinette's Petit Trianon.


We even frame fabric. This vintage Hermès scarf had a small stain and really couldn't be worn any more, so our kindly framer framed it up into a beautiful piece of 'fabric art'.


This glamorous chaise was part of a display of fabrics in the famous D&D Building (Decoration and Design) in New York. This place is a must for designers. There are some many ideas for how to use fabrics and trimmings for little effort. (Will definitely be included in next year's New York tour.)

We had an old Ikea single mattress stored  in the garage, so my partner made a base for it, and I'll now attempt to emulate the far more beautiful D&D chaise above for one-twentieth the cost.


Another wonderful mecca for fabric fans is Edith Mezard's chateau in Provence. Edith is famous for her monogrammed linens and embroidery (The Ritz is a client), and she sells many pieces from a converted stables in her home. Hours are irregular though, so you need to plan.

We're going to be including this lovely place in next year's tour of Paris and Provence.



In London, a great fabric store is MacCulloch & Wallis, just off Oxford Street. You'll need to Google it as it's easy to miss, but the service is wonderful and the fabric range is amazing.



And of course if you haven't been to The Cloth House in Soho, London, you need to pop in there too. (It's just around the corner from MacCulloch & Wallis.)


Merchant & Mills in Rye was featured in a previous post, but it, too, is a must-stop if you're in East Sussex. (This will also be included on future tours.)


In Paris, a gorgeous little mercerie is Ultramod. It's one of the authentic old Parisian haberdasheries, with timber-lined shelves, a beautiful mezzanine and an air of being lost in time.


This was the window merchandising of Ultramod: lamps hung with embroider's thread. So clever.


And finally, a dear friend Doody Taylor made this for me as a special thank-you gift for organising the tour to Dior's home and garden last year. It's a cushion made from the most beautiful fabric and fashion labels. 

At first, I was horrified to think she'd cut the labels from her precious Max Mara and Chanel coats, but she assured me her clothes were still intact! I adore it. It's a very kind gift that now has dress-circle position on our wingback sofas. (Dogs not allowed.) 

It just shows that you can make virtually anything from even the smallest fabric pieces.

The World's Best Fabric & Textiles Stores



I was in a favourite fabric store yesterday, which has the charming name of Odette. It's the smaller sister store of the hugely popular Scarlett Jones in Hawthorn. [scarletjonesmelbourne.blogspot.com] The charming girls and I struck up an animated conversation about our love for linen, as they explained the differences between French, Belgium and Irish. (French is thicker; Irish is finer.)

Then the most glamorous, elegantly svelte woman wandered in, wearing a linen ensemble so fabulous we all stopped talking immediately. She revealed that the long, narrowly cut linen pinafore and pants had been made by Amanda Tabberer (daughter of Maggie and the author of My Amalfi Coast), and had long been one of her favourite outfits. She'd owned the two pieces for years, she confessed, and had even worn them gardening. (My friend Fiona laughed at me on this blog the other day for suggesting linen for gardening, and I admit I was sceptical until I saw this woman's outfit: it was incredibly beautiful and clearly hardy after years of dead-heading the roses.)


The glamorous linen lady then told us what the colour of her outfit was – "Humble Potato".

"You should have seen the other colours – fuchsia and such, ugh," she said as she twisted her nose in horror. I wanted to say: "I would have like to have seen the fuchsia" but didn't dare. Clearly Humble Potato was the only colour one should be seen wearing. (See colour palette above.) I sense I have a lot to learn about the world of linen.




Curiously, the most popular post on this blog was the one on fabrics late last year. Obviously there are lots of other fabric lovers out there. 

So here are a few textile links, fabric sources and stores around the world to inspire you.

(3 images above from my linen pile. Store pix from Odette.)



NB If you're attending the Trade Secrets Garden Fair in Connecticut in May this year, be sure to wear some linen there. It's a linen lover's kinda place...


Blog post on Trade Secrets here – link
or here:
http://janellemccullochlibraryofdesign.blogspot.com.au/2012/05/bunny-williams-and-her-trade-secrets.html



PS I do love a bolt of fuchsia linen... 
But will no doubt be struck from The Linen Lover's Club now.


A SELECTION OF THE WORLD'S BEST FABRIC & TEXTILE STORES AND SOURCES


TRAVEL & LEISURE GUIDE'S TO THE BEST LINEN SOURCES IN EUROPE
http://www.travelandleisure.com/articles/sources-of-softness


APARTMENT THERAPY'S BEST SOURCES FOR LINEN BEDDING
http://www.apartmenttherapy.com/best-linen-bedding-43411


APARTMENT THERAPY'S TOP 10 DESIGNER FABRIC & TEXTILE STORES
http://www.apartmenttherapy.com/top-10-designer-textile-stores-140731


DESIGN SPONGE'S TOP 20 FABRIC RESOURCES
http://www.designsponge.com/2010/09/top-20-fabric-resources.html


FABRIC SHOPPING IN LONDON
http://www.tillyandthebuttons.com/2012/05/fabric-shopping-in-london.html


TEXTILE TOURS TO INDIA
www.fionawright.com/tour.html‎
or
www.colorsofindiatravel.com/textile-craft-tour.htm‎


THE FABRICS OF INDIA
www.travelandleisure.com/articles/the-fabric-of-india‎
and
http://www.travelandleisure.com/trips/discovering-indias-resplendent-textiles


2014: The Year of Two Unusual Hues



Have you noticed? Colour is making a bold comeback, pushing aside the long-lasting trend for beiges, greys, greiges and all those other Frenchy shades. One colour in particular is proving strong. It's the colour that author Alice Walker made famous, the colour Roman Catholic bishops are rather fond of, the colour of new-summer salvias and the admirably hardy stalwart of many Australian gardens, the Veilchenblau rose, and the colour long associated with not only piety and royalty but also growing older gracefully... (Just ask the Queen.)

Yes, it's that greatly misunderstand colour, purple.


Pantone, those people who bravely predict the colours that we'll be wearing, decorating with, or indulging in during the forthcoming year, have courageously put their heads up above the colour parapet and said "hallelujah for purple hues". They've named one purple, in particular, Radiant Orchid, as being Colour of the Year 2014, forecasting that it will be up there as a pre-eminent hue for the next 12 months. 

(Much of Prada, Chanel and Dior's Spring 2014 fashion collections featured a preponderance of pinks and purples on the runways.)


However, alongside all this purple prose,  there's another colour that's creeping up in popularity; a colour that leading paint company Benjamin Moore predicts will have a far-reaching influence this year: sky blue. (Although Benjamin Moore has given it the more 'colourful' name of 'Breath of Fresh Air'.)

And so here, to celebrate the return of two rarely-used hues in fashion and decorating, is a small post on the splendour of powder blue and bold mauve. Er, sorry, Radiant Orchid. Hooray for the colour under-dogs, I say.


One of the most beautiful places to visit in London, the former stately home of Kenwood in Hampstead. Go along just to see Robert Adam's library and this room, above, which is the most ravishing shade. It's one of London's hidden gems – and it's free. How we love a free museum...

www.english-heritage.org.uk/daysout/properties/kenwood



A frock by one of New York's most under-rated fashion designers, Ralph Rucci, whose resort collections are always elegant. No wonder the Upper East Side socialites adore him.

www.chadoralphrucci.com


If you can't afford a Ralph Rucci off the rack, and you're nimble with a Singer, try the Vogue patterns. Mr Rucci normally does one or two designs for Vogue patterns a year. 


This Ralph Rucci wrap dress pattern, above, makes the perfect gardening smock, 
particularly in cotton duck, which is a great utilitarian fabric.



One of the most expensive paints you can purchase if you're an artist is Cobalt Violet. 
(As I discovered when I went to purchase a tube last week, and was told it was $45. I thought she said $5 and carefully counted out some coins on the counter.) 

Use it sparingly, if at all. In fact, at that price you'd probably just want to put it to one side and ponder its beauty while you used the cheaper paints...




Miranda Kerr's home, as photographed recently for cult international website The Coveteur. 
It's a paean to pinks and purples.
(Thanks for showing my book Miranda; I was very touched to see it. But I would have put your amazing shoe collection first in the photo shoot. Covet is the right word.)

http://www.thecoveteur.com/miranda-kerr


The Lilac Walk in New York's Central Park. 
Truly stunning.

(April / May is the best time to see it.)


Have you read the fabulous story behind this painting? Some of you may have already read it, but if not, the link is here. (My sister-in-law just sent me the link this week: I hadn't read about it either.)

It's a truly extraordinary tale of a lavish Parisian apartment that was shut up and forgotten about for 70 years.

http://parisapartment.wordpress.com/2010/10/07/urban-archaeology-sleeping-beautys-paris-apartment-discovered/


If you really want to immerse yourself in Radiant Orchid, you could stay here: the Junior Suite of the Raphael Hotel in Paris.

www.raphael-hotel.com


Clearly, the Roman Catholic bishops recognise a fashion trend before the rest of us.


A few of us are getting ready for another Garden Tour in May this year, this time to the spring gardens of New York, the Hamptons, Connecticut and Savannah/Charleston. It's only a small tour – we filled the 15-seat bus through word-of-mouth – and it looks like being a lovely group. We learned a lot from the last tour and are endeavouring to make it better and more beautiful than England.

The one thing I'm worried about, however, is the dress code. The women on the May 2013 Garden Tour had THE most beautiful scarves – which were almost as beautiful as their wedding rings. (I was telling a friend this week about the 'tour rings'. "Honestly. Some of them were like the Hope Diamond.)

So I've pulled out my best scarves in preparation. 


New York in spring.

Just beautiful.

(Photographed this year. Seems a long way from the blizzards hitting the city at present.)



Have you seen the new app called Waterlogue? 

It's fantastic. It distills your ordinary, everyday iPhone photos into surprisingly beautiful watercolour-style works of art. 

www.waterlogueapp.com


Poliform's new collection for 2014.


Mauve: How One Many Invented a Colour That Changed The World, by Simon Garfield

A fantastic book, which aesthetes and colour enthusiasts will love, about the history and significance of the colour mauve.



The sophisticated interior of the David Collins-designed Artesian bar in London. 

The late David Collins loved the colour blue, but this project moved towards a prettier palette of white and wisteria. So beautiful, it was named The World's Best Bar for 2013.

www.artesian-bar.co.uk


Our home, where purple seems to have made a sneaky appearance in an upstairs bedroom...


Another view of the same bedroom, where a vintage blue-and-mauve Hermès scarf bought in Paris became the decorating cue for the room.


And our newly painted powder-blue library / living room. 

The walls are done in Porter's Paint's 'Nebular', which is a pretty plumbago-blue shade, almost the colour of summer hydrangeas.


The pale blue linen slipcover for the ottoman is from Scarlett Jones' fabric store in Melbourne. They have lovely Belgium linen that looks like antique French linen.


The always gorgeous Boatshed at Balmoral in Sydney. 

Every week the flowers here are spectacular – and always seem to perfectly match the aqua and pale-blue interior.


A famous image of some of the designs of couturier Charles James; the subject of a major Metropolitan Museum of Art Costume Institute exhibition this year.

Charles James: Beyond Fashion
From May 8 until August 10, 2014

www.metmuseum.org


Speaking of sky blue, this is a perfect photo to illustrate the hue.

I had a few quick days away in the Whitsunday Islands before Christmas, to decompress after an intense and sometimes exhausting year. The view over the islands and the Great Barrier Reef surely has to be one of the most memorable in the world. I always go quiet when the plane flies over the bays and inlets of this incredibly beautiful part of Australia.




More sea-blue inspiration from the Whitsundays...


New York's coolly glamorous new hotel, The Marlton, which has lots of blue in the design palette.

The Greenwich Village location is superb too.

marltonhotel.com


It's 33 degrees Celcius here in Melbourne today. (92 Fahrenheit)
Off to make a G&T.

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