Glamour In Manhattan: Travel Insights




Unlike Paris, New York doesn’t seduce you with its Haussmanian sophistication or its seductive wardrobes and ways. It doesn’t have the history, dignity and grace of London, nor the sunny glamour of Sydney—although it does have its own unique sheen. What it does have is confidence and unending energy, and with that drive and determination New Yorkers have built one of the most thrilling and inspirational destinations in the world. If you're feeling tired, overworked, in need of new direction or creative/business ideas, or just want  a glamour boost, this is the city for you.

Most of the creative professionals I know go to New York several times a year, and not just because they can claim the trip on tax. It's stimulating, reinvigorating, inspiring, and enlivening. 

A week here will turn you into a new person. 


Furthermore, New York is going through enormous aesthetic changes at the moment as New York entrepreneurs revive once-staid neighbourhoods with glamorous new hotels and spectacular new stores.

Three of these rapidly changing neighbourhoods are the Flatiron, the Garment District and the Upper East Side. All three are going through a kind of revival, although the Flatiron is attracting the most attention. Named for its ironic (and much-loved) cheesegrater-style building, this bustling quarter has become the city's new design hub, with gorgeous home stores, edgy hotels, and whimsical boutiques. (Don't miss the Marimekko fabric store, the elegant new J Crew store, which has a mini bookstore, and Rizzoli's stylish new bookstore due to open in spring 2015.) 


Here are a few travel insights to help you discover the most memorable sides of Manhattan.


Oh – and my lovely publishers have said to tell you that if you'd like to buy the new New York in Style book directly from them, they'll give you a 30% discount.  
Just go to www.mup.com.au and enter the promo code NYSTYLE30 on checkout.
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NEW YORK TOUR

Of course, if you really want to know where the great little fashion museums, design stores, fabric stores, vintage Chanel stores, flea markets, fashion boutiques and fabulous restaurants and bars are, come on our Gardenesque Tour in late April 2015. Numbers are limited to 15 people per tour, and we've already had serious interest from five times that number, so it's likely to fill up quickly.

Alternatively, you could book the New England tour (see previous post), and tack on a few days in New York before or after the New England tour.


WHEN TO GO
My favourite month to experience Manhattan is late April, when the streets burst into blossoms and the park break into bulbs – it always surprises me how many flowers there are here in spring and how a metropolis of skyscrapers can be softened by all those beds of perennials down below. 

{Our Gardenesque tour is scheduled to see New York in April – when the city is at its best.}


WHERE TO STAY

The NoMad was one of the first to inject a modern dose of glamour into the rapidly changing and newly fashionable Flatiron 'hood. Other places, such as the Shake Shack, The Ace and Eataly had already moved in, but The NoMad seemed to pave the way for a whole lot of new high-end retailers and businessman. (Even Rizzoli's new bookstore is moving downtown to the Flatiron quarter.) Service can be a bit off-hand at the NoMad, but the fabulous interiors and furnishings are worth it.

Other new hotel openings schedule for 2014 include: The Archer Hotel, which will pay homage to its Garment District location with a mix of fabrics (6 Times Square; www.archerhotel.com), the Knickerbocker Hotel, which will re-open to show off its glorious, Beaux-Arts architecture, literary links and distinctive mansard roof (142 West 42nd Street; www.theknickerbocker.com), and the new SLS Hotel New York – another newcomer to the NoMad/Flatiron neighbourhood  444 Park Avenue. www.slshotels.com But perhaps the most anticipated newcomer is the luxurious Baccarat Hotel, which opens late 2014. Housed in a 45-storey glass tower opposite the MoMA, it’s the first US Baccarat Hotel and likely to be as shiny and fine as its sister restaurant in Paris. 20 West 53rd Street. www.baccarathotels.com

If you want to fork out for a truly memorable hotel room, book into the F. Scott Fitzgerald Suite at The Plaza. Designed by Oscar-winning costume designer and Baz Luhrmann’s other half, Catherine Martin, this dramatic Art Deco space was inspired by Scott and Zelda, both devoted patrons of The Plaza. The suite features photos of the duo, Scott’s complete works, documentaries and movies, and beautiful coffee-table books that evoke languorous summers on Long Island and New York in the roaring twenties. 768 Fifth Avenue. www.plazany.com


WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK

The NoMad's Library Bar (above left) is one of the most beautiful spaces in Manhattan. 
Other must-sees include Balthazar in SoHo (above right), Benoit, Caffe Storico, Harlow, Eleven Madison Park, and The Lion

We'll also be visiting a few secret and extraordinarily beautiful rooftop hideaways with gorgeous views on our Gardenesque Tour. {www.gardenesequetours.com}


WHERE TO SHOP
Quite possibly one of the best sources of vintage Chanel in New York is Jewel Diva, situated within the equally wondrous New York Showplace. It’s a tiny stall, barely bigger than a Chanel earring, but the owner is clearly well connected when it comes to vintage designer jewellery—and clearly informed. You can tell she knows her stuff: the last time I visited she was carrying a lot of vintage Chanel pendant necklaces, which are very ‘in’ at the moment. She also stocks Dior and many other fine French jewellery pieces, some of which date back to the 1920s. Her tagline is ‘From deco to disco, Victorian to modernist, Haskell to Chanel’, which sums it up, really. 40 West 25th Street – but check hours, weekends are often closed.

Other great places to source gorgeous things include Ralph Lauren's Home store (above), where you can find elegant accessories to luxe up your flea-market finds, Anya Hindmarch’s new Upper East Side store (which now offers a bespoke handbag service), the D&D Building (a fabric lover’s mecca), and ABC Carpet and Home (a must for interior design lovers). {All details in New York book}


WHAT TO LOOK UP FOR
New York is mostly a city where you try and get high in order to look down, but here's one place where it pays to look up! A signature feature of the Fifth Avenue skyline, The Pierre's ornate Mansard roof (above, building on left) is an architectural treasure. It was once the most glamorous ballroom in Manhattan—and a place for high society to escape Depression-era New York. The ballroom was shuttered in the early 1970s and forgotten about for nearly twenty years. Lost to time, it was regarded by Pierre staff of as a kind of ‘grand attic’ to shove unwanted furniture. It was finally sold in 1988 to Australian heiress Lady Mary Fairfax, who converted it into one of the most opulent private residences in the city. (It included a 3500-square-foot ballroom, a Belgian marble double staircase, a 20-foot-high Palladian windows, a curved 23-foot ceiling and huge terraces overlooking Central Park.) It was later re-listed for US$70 million; at that time the highest price ever for a New York residence. It was such a symbol of wealth that the makers of the film Meet Joe Black cast the penthouse as the residence of Anthony Hopkins’ character. To locate it, look for the French-style Mansard roof on Fifth Avenue. 2 East 61st Street.

Hundreds more New York insights are available in the new book New York in Style out next week, or on our Glamour & Grandeur Tour – 

How To Travel, Cheaply


Readers write the loveliest emails. This week I received half a dozen notes from some truly inspiring women. One was off to live in London for the summer and autumn months. (I've done that before and desperately wish I could do it again.) Another had borrowed a friend's house in the South of France for a little while. She was reading the Provence book, and hearing the excitement in her emails made me wish I was returning to the Riviera again this year. Oh for the money (and time) to be able to travel in such style!


Some people are really bad at travel. They whinge and grumble about everything. Most of us realise travel is difficult at times, but the thrill of seeing new places should always overcome the displacement. Even in my darkest hours, when I've stood on the Pont des Arts bridge in Paris and cried tears of weariness; when I've flown into a hurricane in the Bahamas (on the last flight into Nassau before the airport closed) and wondered if I'd ever get home?; when I've wandered a snowy road in Denmark and felt a homesickness for Australia that was so deep it caused my heart to ache, I've never regretted travelling. Never. 

Even this morning, while trying to book / rebook an international flight (having postponed a trip that really needs to be done) and failing, and then having to ring overseas five times to chase the refund (FIVE times; from Australia!), and then announcing to my partner that I was NEVER getting on another plane again, I knew in my heart there were lots of rewarding places I still wanted to explore.


Over the years, friends have given me great tips on ways to lighten the travel experience. So here are a few, to keep you inspired and motivated, too.


SEE DIFFERENT DESTINATIONS

My parents, who travel the globe like the rest of us have cups of tea, rarely return to the same place twice. It's my father's philosophy, and it's a good one. If you always tread the old London-Paris-Italy-New York routes, think about seeing somewhere new. Go somewhere you've never been. 

We're trying to get to Raja Ampat (above) before it explodes with tourism. My niece just returned from Costa Rica. When today's papers announced that "Sri Lanka is the new Bali" I thought: Oh no, there goes another place I've missed, and now it's too late! 

But it's never too late to get off the beaten track and find the side roads of life.


So if you always do London, you could take a train to Bath one day to see the Fashion Museum (above). 

And if you always go to New York for business you could stay an extra few days and get a $100 JetBlue flight to Nantucket island. (Beautiful.) Or hire a car to explore Sharon Springs (site of the Beekman Boys' famously beautiful store) and the villages of nearby Connecticut. 


And if you always go to Paris, you could hire a bike for a day and ride around the gardens of Versailles. Or explore Normandy, and Chateau Brecy, Giverny and Le Musée Christian Dior


And if you always fly through Singapore or Bangkok you could tack on a week and hop across to Angkor Wat, or the equally astonishing Borobudur, above. (Bangkok Air often have $20 flights.) 


THINK: CHEAP

If you rack up the dollars before your trip has started, your stress levels will diminish the joy of the forthcoming departure. Find affordable hotels and reasonable flights, and you'll be much happier about heading out. When I gently warned one reader that she may find her Riviera hotel a little austere, she was unperturbed. It saved money for a few days, she said, and the location was perfect. Wise woman.

Two of the lovely women from last year's garden tour are keen to do further tours and so I've been trying to find hotels. There are SO many beautiful places for less than $200/n. Try TabletHotels.com for great deals, or travel a month either before or after peak season (ie May is often cheaper than June). 


If you're looking for some affordable hotels, here's a good list to start with, below. (NB If you need some luxe, book into an expensive place for one night every week; for the other 6 nights save the $$$.)


CHEAP HOTELS IN NEW YORK 

The Marlton, Greenwich Village— marltonhotel.com
The Jade, Greenwich Village — www.thejadenyc.com
The Night Hotel, Times Square — www.nighthotels.com
The Roger Hotel, Midtown — www.therogernewyork.com


CHEAP HOTELS IN LONDON
(Note: Do ensure you research hotels in London as some places don't suit everyone)

The Dorset Square Hotel, Marylebone —www.firmdalehotels.com/london/dorset-square-hotel‎
The Gore Hotel, South Kensington — www.gorehotel.com
The Ambersand, South Kensington www.ambersandhotel.com
The Rockwell, Kensington — www.therockwell.com
The Cranley, South Kensington — www.cranleyhotel.com
The Main House, Notting Hill — www.themainhouse.co.uk
The Spitalfields Townhouse — www.stayinspitalfields.com
La Suite West, Bayswater — www.lasuitewest.com
The Fielding Hotel, Covent Garden – www.thefieldinghotel.co.uk
Fox Club, Mayfair — www.foxclublondon.com
The Grazing Goat, Marylebone (not as cheap as it once was, but still pretty) — www.thegrazinggoat.co.uk


FIND AFFORDABLE WAYS OF GETTING PLACES

Don't assume travel has to be expensive. Even the traditionally expensive long-haul routes, say from Australia to London or New York, can be had for half-price. 

Research and compare fares on Skyscanner.com, cheapflights.com.au, lowostholidays.com.au or one of the other travel sites.

Sometimes there even will be airlines trying out new routes for very cheap prices. For example, while trying to find a flight to Denmark recently, I noticed Norwegian Air are now clearly going into competition with Ryan Air and flying direct from NY to Copenhagen, as well as many other routes, for half the price of the other carriers. It's a great way to see Scandinavia for very little.

If you're criss-crossing the US, try low-cost airlines such as JetBlue for cheap deals rather than bigger airlines such as United or Virgin. 

Or consider breaking up your long-haul flight by grabbing a cheap Jetstar flight to Singapore ($300 return from Australia at the moment) or Hong Kong, then picking up one of the top-tier carriers such as Singapore Airlines from there to your final destination.

Sri Lanka Airlines flies from Singapore to London for just $900, and you can often get a free stopover for a day or two in Colomb -- enough time to pick up a Ceylon sapphire!

Even direct flights, such as Sin-Lon-Sin (return) with Singapore Airlines (the best airline in the world) are only $1000, which will make your return fare from Australia to Europe just $1300. 

Bargain.

2014: The Year of Two Unusual Hues



Have you noticed? Colour is making a bold comeback, pushing aside the long-lasting trend for beiges, greys, greiges and all those other Frenchy shades. One colour in particular is proving strong. It's the colour that author Alice Walker made famous, the colour Roman Catholic bishops are rather fond of, the colour of new-summer salvias and the admirably hardy stalwart of many Australian gardens, the Veilchenblau rose, and the colour long associated with not only piety and royalty but also growing older gracefully... (Just ask the Queen.)

Yes, it's that greatly misunderstand colour, purple.


Pantone, those people who bravely predict the colours that we'll be wearing, decorating with, or indulging in during the forthcoming year, have courageously put their heads up above the colour parapet and said "hallelujah for purple hues". They've named one purple, in particular, Radiant Orchid, as being Colour of the Year 2014, forecasting that it will be up there as a pre-eminent hue for the next 12 months. 

(Much of Prada, Chanel and Dior's Spring 2014 fashion collections featured a preponderance of pinks and purples on the runways.)


However, alongside all this purple prose,  there's another colour that's creeping up in popularity; a colour that leading paint company Benjamin Moore predicts will have a far-reaching influence this year: sky blue. (Although Benjamin Moore has given it the more 'colourful' name of 'Breath of Fresh Air'.)

And so here, to celebrate the return of two rarely-used hues in fashion and decorating, is a small post on the splendour of powder blue and bold mauve. Er, sorry, Radiant Orchid. Hooray for the colour under-dogs, I say.


One of the most beautiful places to visit in London, the former stately home of Kenwood in Hampstead. Go along just to see Robert Adam's library and this room, above, which is the most ravishing shade. It's one of London's hidden gems – and it's free. How we love a free museum...

www.english-heritage.org.uk/daysout/properties/kenwood



A frock by one of New York's most under-rated fashion designers, Ralph Rucci, whose resort collections are always elegant. No wonder the Upper East Side socialites adore him.

www.chadoralphrucci.com


If you can't afford a Ralph Rucci off the rack, and you're nimble with a Singer, try the Vogue patterns. Mr Rucci normally does one or two designs for Vogue patterns a year. 


This Ralph Rucci wrap dress pattern, above, makes the perfect gardening smock, 
particularly in cotton duck, which is a great utilitarian fabric.



One of the most expensive paints you can purchase if you're an artist is Cobalt Violet. 
(As I discovered when I went to purchase a tube last week, and was told it was $45. I thought she said $5 and carefully counted out some coins on the counter.) 

Use it sparingly, if at all. In fact, at that price you'd probably just want to put it to one side and ponder its beauty while you used the cheaper paints...




Miranda Kerr's home, as photographed recently for cult international website The Coveteur. 
It's a paean to pinks and purples.
(Thanks for showing my book Miranda; I was very touched to see it. But I would have put your amazing shoe collection first in the photo shoot. Covet is the right word.)

http://www.thecoveteur.com/miranda-kerr


The Lilac Walk in New York's Central Park. 
Truly stunning.

(April / May is the best time to see it.)


Have you read the fabulous story behind this painting? Some of you may have already read it, but if not, the link is here. (My sister-in-law just sent me the link this week: I hadn't read about it either.)

It's a truly extraordinary tale of a lavish Parisian apartment that was shut up and forgotten about for 70 years.

http://parisapartment.wordpress.com/2010/10/07/urban-archaeology-sleeping-beautys-paris-apartment-discovered/


If you really want to immerse yourself in Radiant Orchid, you could stay here: the Junior Suite of the Raphael Hotel in Paris.

www.raphael-hotel.com


Clearly, the Roman Catholic bishops recognise a fashion trend before the rest of us.


A few of us are getting ready for another Garden Tour in May this year, this time to the spring gardens of New York, the Hamptons, Connecticut and Savannah/Charleston. It's only a small tour – we filled the 15-seat bus through word-of-mouth – and it looks like being a lovely group. We learned a lot from the last tour and are endeavouring to make it better and more beautiful than England.

The one thing I'm worried about, however, is the dress code. The women on the May 2013 Garden Tour had THE most beautiful scarves – which were almost as beautiful as their wedding rings. (I was telling a friend this week about the 'tour rings'. "Honestly. Some of them were like the Hope Diamond.)

So I've pulled out my best scarves in preparation. 


New York in spring.

Just beautiful.

(Photographed this year. Seems a long way from the blizzards hitting the city at present.)



Have you seen the new app called Waterlogue? 

It's fantastic. It distills your ordinary, everyday iPhone photos into surprisingly beautiful watercolour-style works of art. 

www.waterlogueapp.com


Poliform's new collection for 2014.


Mauve: How One Many Invented a Colour That Changed The World, by Simon Garfield

A fantastic book, which aesthetes and colour enthusiasts will love, about the history and significance of the colour mauve.



The sophisticated interior of the David Collins-designed Artesian bar in London. 

The late David Collins loved the colour blue, but this project moved towards a prettier palette of white and wisteria. So beautiful, it was named The World's Best Bar for 2013.

www.artesian-bar.co.uk


Our home, where purple seems to have made a sneaky appearance in an upstairs bedroom...


Another view of the same bedroom, where a vintage blue-and-mauve Hermès scarf bought in Paris became the decorating cue for the room.


And our newly painted powder-blue library / living room. 

The walls are done in Porter's Paint's 'Nebular', which is a pretty plumbago-blue shade, almost the colour of summer hydrangeas.


The pale blue linen slipcover for the ottoman is from Scarlett Jones' fabric store in Melbourne. They have lovely Belgium linen that looks like antique French linen.


The always gorgeous Boatshed at Balmoral in Sydney. 

Every week the flowers here are spectacular – and always seem to perfectly match the aqua and pale-blue interior.


A famous image of some of the designs of couturier Charles James; the subject of a major Metropolitan Museum of Art Costume Institute exhibition this year.

Charles James: Beyond Fashion
From May 8 until August 10, 2014

www.metmuseum.org


Speaking of sky blue, this is a perfect photo to illustrate the hue.

I had a few quick days away in the Whitsunday Islands before Christmas, to decompress after an intense and sometimes exhausting year. The view over the islands and the Great Barrier Reef surely has to be one of the most memorable in the world. I always go quiet when the plane flies over the bays and inlets of this incredibly beautiful part of Australia.




More sea-blue inspiration from the Whitsundays...


New York's coolly glamorous new hotel, The Marlton, which has lots of blue in the design palette.

The Greenwich Village location is superb too.

marltonhotel.com


It's 33 degrees Celcius here in Melbourne today. (92 Fahrenheit)
Off to make a G&T.

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