Textiles and Fashion Discoveries of Paris and London, Part 1

When you travel for work, it's easy to get stuck into the same old 'the Milk Run' (as a friend calls it) of staying in same trusted hotels, strolling the same favourite routes and neighbourhoods; browsing at the same beloved boutiques; dining at the same restaurants (with friends who love them as much as you do) and even visiting the same museums. 

But every now and then it's important, I think, to step off the Milk Run and discover cities anew—just as you did the first time you went overseas. Changing the pace and the paths you take can renew your sense of wonder at places, and make you fall in love with destinations all over again.

This happened to me this week. 

In the spirit of this new 'Gratitude Attitude' that we're all joyfully adopting, I decided to try and uncover parts of London and Paris I'd never seen. 

I'm here for a few days to source textiles and fashion places for new books, including the Paris book that's been stuck behind a writer's block. For the last few months I've been reluctant to leave my partner at home after a few very sad months, but the state election is on, our house is in chaos because of it (my partner works in politics part-time), and so it seemed like a good time to finally GET OUT OF TOWN and find inspiration again!

As it turned out, the last week of November is the perfect time to travel: Paris hotels are dirt cheap (I found many for $100/n), the Christmas lights are twinkling, and the weather is still gentle. More than that, people are busy and so things that would normally be booked out are available. But the most wonderful thing about getting off the ol' Milk Run is discovering a new side to Paris and London.

Let me show you what I mean.

Every month, the V&A Museum has a tour of its archives. I'd never bothered with it before as it's often over-subscribed, but this week there was a place, so I cleared a few hours to try it.

Oh my. What a textile lover's dream.

Held at Blythe House in West Kensington, the archives are where the museum's collections of fashion and textiles are stored when they're not on show. Our group only saw one room but there were 54,000 pieces in that one room. Rows and rows of vintage Dior, Givenchy, Balenciaga, Chanel and so on... I can't tell you how amazed we all were. The gasps seem to rise higher and higher.

I dare not show you much as I'm not sure how much we're allowed to reveal (the security was tighter than MI5!), but I can tell you it's well worth it. If you love fashion and textiles, it's an incredible place to see. The V&T has always been held in high regard by fashion and textile lovers but this team should be applauded for their dedication to preserving such magnificent history.

Another little-explored section of London—at least for me—is the northern part of Notting Hill, and having heard about the wonders of The Cloth Shop, a fabulous fabric resource in W10, I decided to head north. 

(Tip: If you want to see Portobello Road, go on Fridays when there are no crowds. It's bliss.)

The Cloth Shop is a secret treasure trove of textile goodies in the midst of the bustling markets: a store full of beautiful linens (some as little as 12 pounds) and striped bolts galore.

The staff is also lovely. There's a cat too, who happily sits on all the expensive trimmings.

While you're there, pop around the corner to Alice Temperley, a designer loved by both British celebs and Australian expats for her intricately detailed pieces. (link) 

She has stores in King's Road and Mayfair, but this is her original, and is still her private atelier.

This house is on the way to Temperley.

 If you look carefully, the brass plaque says 'BANK ROBBER'. 

Clearly a thief with wit and style.

I'd also never really stopped to notice the flower stalls in London before. This as one filled with Christmas bouquets in shades of crimson and magenta. Just beautiful.

More London cuteness. I can't believe I've never seen this side of Notting Hill before.

But perhaps my biggest London 'discovery' has been the bedrooms of Blakes Hotel. 

Which have to be seen to be believed.

Most design lovers and hotel hedonists know about Blakes—it was the first 'boutique hotel' in the world. Like many, however, I'd never really spent much time here. Until now. With cheap November deals (try Sundays and Mondays for the best bargain prices), I booked a night. 

They kindly gave me the red-and-white room. Which was like walking into an urban oasis on a cold London afternoon.

This is the bathrom. Balcony and all. 

(Can you see the ceiling? It's all lined in fabric. Incredible.)

The detail in the curtains, curtain pulls and door handles was enough to make a design lover gasp.

Apparently Lady Gaga stays in a similar red-lined room here. A room that, incidentally, has just been voted The Most Romantic Hotel Room In The World by Mr and Mrs Smith Guides.

Here's another room, which Amelia, the gorgeous reservations girl, kindly showed me. 

The price for this room is incredibly cheap, considering the design.

If you love fabrics, this is the London hotel for you.

Trust me. You'll be as ga-ga as Lady Gaga.

I'm back in London next week, so will post more textile gorgeousness then.

I'm now in Paris for a few days to source fashion, style and design destinations for the new Paris book (just to finish it off), and will post many of my Parisian discoveries this week.

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Travel Insights: Where To Go in 2015

If you're planning your 2015 sojourns, here are some inspiration and ideas to get you started.

The most important thing to remember when planning trips is that some destinations are seasonal, so pick your month with care.

I was set to do some work in Cambodia in May, enroute to London and Paris, but was advised to avoid the monsoon period, and travel in December instead. The rains can also wash out Paris at certain times of the year, usually late April and May, so take an umbrella and/or raincoat if you're heading there at that time. The best months to see Paris are April and September. 
New York is also beautiful in April, when the blossoms and bulbs all come out, while autumn/October in Manhattan is magical.
Charleston is also best in April (lots of private gardens open up to the public), while New Orleans is fab — both weather-wise and in terms of a festive spirit—at Halloween.
London is best in June when the roses come out, or Christmas, when the Chrissy decorations glow like a fairytale.
And Sydney is stunning in spring (Sept), but horribly muggy in summer (Jan).


All that said, it really doesn't matter when you travel, as long as you do travel.
Here are some places and ideas to get your 2015 itineraries started.

A BOOKSHOP THAT'S NOW A HOTEL

With the quirky name of Only You, this new, navy-trimmed beauty opened earlier this year. It was created from a former bookshop (now the bar) and a former 19th-century palace once owned by an aristocratic Spanish family. 

The interior design retains the charm of the original buildings while adding some surprising touches. The elevators in the foyer, for example, have been hidden behind a beautiful blue-and-white Chinoiserie facade. 

Its designer Lázaro Rosa Violán is fast becoming the new Michele Bonan (the talent behind JK Capri), blending classic lines with contemporary art and eclectic pieces. The hotel is right in central Madrid and has rooms from €160. Leaving you lots of money to splurge on Spanish tapas and wine. 

www.onlyyouhotels.com

A BALCONY THAT'S NOW A BAR

If you haven't yet been to this London cutie, put it on The List. Inspired by grand Parisian brasseries, The Balcon Bar is one of the city's prettiest and most delightful spots for a pick-me-up G&T or a chat with friends over a dirty great magnum of French Champagne. 

The design and colour palette – periwinkle blue paired with rich mahogany timbers and high ceilings—is so alluring, people have been known to steal the design ideas for their own home. 

www.thebalconlondon.com

Other lovely places to check out in London include the just-opened Mondrian Hotel, the ever-improving Fashion and Textile Museum (just near the Design Museum), the pretty new Cabbages and Roses store off King's Road, and the new designer boutiques and buzzing scene set around elegant Mount Street in Mayfair.

PUTTING BANGKOK BACK ON THE (DESIGN) MAP

Ever since it opened in 2012, The Siam Hotel in Bangkok has become one of the most talked-about hotels in travel circles. It's owned by a Thai rock start but there's definitely no sign of ripped jeans and Jaggereque swagger here: just coolly glamorous suites and Instagram-worthy antique collections. The aesthetic is classic colonial, so vintage suitcases and old hunting hats dot the sideboards, but the colour palette of cool blue, Dior grey and ebony black modernises the design.

The best part? The enormous spa-style bathrooms and private pools (above). The hotel also provides handy floorplans so you can see how much luxury you're getting for your Baht. 

It makes those Bangkok stopovers look a whole lot brighter.

(NB This place isn't cheap, so put it on the 'Indulgence List')

www.thesiamhotel.com

SAILING UNEXPLORED ARCHIPALEGOS

Remember when Gwyneth Paltrow was slapped around by social media for posting about her 4-day, $62,000 trip aboard the Silolona schooner? (link) (Personally, I think: Good on her. If she has the cash, why not?) Well, Gwennie may have been onto something, because sailing the Indonesian archipelago has become one of THE hottest activities in travel as we face the head winds of 2015.

Why? Well, Indonesia's remote islands are possibly the last unexplored place on earth, now that Bhutan is busier than the Eurostar.

 The relatively secret Raja Ampat has long been regarded by the diving world as a pristine diving and snorkelling destination, but there are hundreds of unexplored islands to snorkel/swim/hike here. Furthermore, Bali-based brands such as Villa Sungai and Plantaran (above) offer amazing old refitted schooners to cruise on, with all meals and drinks included.

Two other tropical destinations that are starting to see schooners—one of the best ways to explore watery places – are the Maldives and Fiji. Both are particularly suited to schooner-ish adventures because you can sail from island to island, snorkelling the pristine reefs in between. I've been liaising with a lovely California travel agency, Pacific Harbor Travel, about their dedicated snorkelling cruises to the Maldives and Fiji—perfect for travellers who want to escape the stress of life by drifting underwater for their entire holiday. The best part? They're usually less than $400/day (all-inclusive), as opposed to the standard $700+ (without meals) charged by most Maldives resorts. 

Sounds idyllic, doesn't it? 

Gwennie may have had the right idea escaping on a schooner, after all...

LUXE FOR LESS IN MARRAKECH

Ever since an online friend, Miss Slim Paley (link) photographed and posted about the Royal Mansour in Marrakech, I've had it on the Wish List. Commissioned by King Mohamed VI of Morocco to accommodate state guests, its interior comprises intricate, finely-detailed tiles, furniture and lighting handmade by local artisans whose decorative arts skills have been passed down through the generations. 

SP finds ALL the best hideaways in the world—she also did the Four Seasons Landaa Giraavaru in the Maldives; one of the most beautiful places on earth—but what I love is that she elected not to stay here and pay the eye-watering prices but simply went for lunch instead. (Which then lingered into cocktails and dinner. Cos that's the sort of ravishing place it is.)

Booking a lunch instead of a bed is the cheap way of seeing such luscious places. The hotel doesn't mind how long you stay, as long as you keep ordering wine, and you're normally welcome to wander around the courtyards and grounds between courses, or afterwards. 

We're having a pre-Christmas lunch at Amanjiwo to save money this very way.

www.royalmansour.com   

slimpaley.com

TIPS FROM TRAVEL BLOGGERS

If you're stuck for inspiration, or just want some travel eye candy to get you through the lunch hour, some great travel blogs are Tuula Vintage www.tuulavintage.com (also has lists of vintage stores) and Friend in Fashion www.friendinfashion.com.au (image above). Four Months in Paris is also full of Parisian pleasures parisinfourmonths.com while Pret a Voyager always has great ideas – her map posts are gorgeous. www.pret-a-voyager.com I also love A Lady In London because she has what seems like an incredible life but also seems very down-to-earth about it – www.aladyinlondon.com

LIVING LIKE LOUIS VUITTON

If you've 'done' a lot of Paris and want to see different things, there are all sorts of secret corners offering aesthetic treasures. Along with Frank Gehry's new Fondation Louis Vuitton (just opened last month), there's also Louis Vuitton Espace Culturel, a quiet gallery space on the second floor of the Paris flagship store. Not only does it offer a glorious view of the rooftops of Paris but it also features ongoing exhibitions, and each one comes with a covetable, limited-edition cloth-covered catalogue. You can wander through with a guide, or explore the space on your own. 

The well-stocked reading room is bliss, too. And it's all FREE.

If you can't get to Paris, consider buying the truly beautiful Louis Vuitton book, 100 Legendary Trunks: The History of the Travel Trunk (above). I received this for a Christmas gift and it remains my favourite design book. (link) A great Chrissy gift for the adventurer in your family.

THE FRENCH RIVIERA — THEN AND NOW

Another sumptuous book to inspire you is The French Riviera in the 1920s, by Xavier Girard. It's a new release from Assouline and I was lucky to receive it as a gift from The Man for surviving a tough few months. It's now my second-favourite book. The photos alone are worth the price tag. See if Santa will gift it to you. It will inspire you to visit / return to the French Riviera, trust me! (link)

KATE SPADE, ON HOLIDAYS

Another new title that's creating a buzz amongst stylish travellers is Kate Spade's new travel book, Places To Go; People To See. (link) 

Full of quirky lists and even-more irresistible drawings, it reminds you that travel is meant to be fun: something we all forget on occasion.

KEEPING YOUR MEMENTOS 

Something we've started to do in our house is collect little bits and pieces from our travels and display them in our kitchen, where we pass them every day as we walk outside. It reminds us of the places we've been fortunate to visit, the sights we've seen, and the lovely people we've met along the way... It also reminds us to be grateful for our travels, cos it's unlikely we'll be lounging around the Hôtel du Cap-Eden-Roc when we're eighty...!

The team at Maison Valentino has also done it. They love travel so much, they featured a mood board as part of a recent fashion show.

AND LASTLY, A TREAT FOR ALL THE SENSES

I'm going to leave you with a place that was recently voted by hotel and publishing company Mr and Mrs Smith as being one of the most beautiful in the world. It's Six Senses's sublime hideaway at Ninh Van Bay in Vietnam. (link)

Now this isn't cheap, so reserve it for anniversaries or indulgences, but it's said to be worth every cent. Some of the villas have their own private plunge pools carved out of the rock cliffs, as well as hand-crafted timber soaking baths.

And just look at that view...

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Paris Travel Tips

Lots of people have emailed about Paris, both this week and over the past few years, asking for ideas and travel tips. I never know how to reply because people, of course, are very different, and everyone likes doing different things. I love gardens, fabric stores, vintage fairs and fashion boutiques, and unusual museums, but others may want to see les grands magasins (the famous department stores), before ticking off the the most iconic buildings, the most idyllic side streets and the prettiest photo opportunities. 

Whatever our preferences there is no doubt that Paris charms, beguiles and delights us all. As my next book on Paris is likely to be my last it will cover places I've never written about before; places I've tended to keep close to my chest (and heart). I'm also doing maps and illustrations to help readers locate all the places. If you have any suggestions for places to see or go, do let me know. I always love hearing about new destinations.

Here are a few tips for people travelling to Paris this summer or indeed in the future. (I can't give too much away or my publisher will admonish me.) If you are heading off soon, I hope you have a really wonderful time! And please don't hesitate to email me if you have any questions: I'll always try and answer them.

Pack your most comfortable shoes.

 This may seem obvious, but people still pack heels for day use. Paris has far more cobblestoned streets, stairs and changes of level than, say, London, and the pavers and steps will tire your feet surprisingly quickly. I wore what I thought were comfy boots this trip but still had to go and buy the ubiquitous ballet flats the third day in. Ballets aren't as comfy as proper walking shoes, but when you're desperate they'll do. The cheapest ballets are in the markets (such as Clignancourt), and in the many discount shops of the Left Bank and the Marais. One tip for buying ballets: the closer into the inner city you go the more expensive they'll be. I found lovely pairs of ballets in both Le Bon Marché and nearby Jet Set (which has very glamorous shoes) for 200 euros; similar ballets were just 10 euros a short walk around the corner down the Rue de Rennes.

Another tip: Buy up big in plasters, bandaids, foot files, etc, before you leave home. Pedicure bits and pieces are incredibly expensive in Parisian chemists – I once saw a foot file for 30 euros and bandaids/plasters are often eye-wateringly expensive. Before travelling to Paris, I always buy supplies from Boots in London, where bandaids and basic foot files are only 2 pounds.

Hotels versus apartments

Lots of travellers are jumping on the apartment bandwagon, and sites such as One Fine Stay offer truly beautiful places to bed down, but I hate paying a deposit and worrying about being charged for damage I haven't caused – which does happen with some agencies. If you're in Paris for less than 3 days a hotel is still the best option. (I'll do a post on Parisian apartments soon.)

My favourite cheap-to-middle-priced hotels are the cheap 'n' chic Hotel des Marronniers, which is right in the heart of Saint Germain-des-Pres and has a pretty garden, Hotel de Buci (above), which is slightly more expensive but has lovely interiors, and the more-expensive-again L'hôtel Récamier on Square St.-Sulpice, which is one for a special occasion. The Hôtel Abbaye Saint Germain is also a lovely place with a gorgeous rear garden and front courtyard entrance.

Try new hotels for cheap prices.

When hotels open, they usually offer a 'friendly' rate for the first 3 to 6 months and sometimes for a year. I stayed in the Hotel Paradis this past trip for just 100 euros a night, which is cheap for peak summer season. Keep an eye out on HotelChatter.com for new openings.

Try the markets for memorable fashion.

Lots of people adore shopping on the grand boulevards, but you can find equally extraordinary pieces in the markets. Try the stalls of Marché Paul Bert and the Serpette (www.marcheserpette.com) for beautiful old designer pieces from the likes of Balenciaga, Chanel, Dior and Saint Laurent.

Wander though Paris' passages.

Don't miss wandering the old passages of Paris for authentic atmosphere – and great photo ops. They're also great for avoiding the rain during showers. Try Passage Verdeau and the cluster of other charming arcades to the east of the Palais Royal.

 Tracking down authentic Chanel, Hermès, and other covetable names.

Not surprisingly, one of the most popular souvenirs for women travellers visiting Paris is something from one of the grand French names. You only need to go to the flagship Hermès store to see this. However, you don't need to pay big money for your Parisian pleasures. If you want some authentic Chanel or Hermès (and don't have time to trawl the flea markets), try the resale stores, which often have brand new, never-worn items with tags still attached alongside the carefully loved clothes. Catherine B. on the Left Bank is a favourite with fashion editors but another great store is Reciproque, at 95 Rue de la Pompe in the 16th. I've found Chanel jackets in both stores for less than 1000 euros – still too much for me (I ended up buying some vintage Chanel jewellery instead) – but significantly less than in a Chanel store.

And if you do want something to remember Paris by, try finding some vintage Chanel jewellery (ie less than 1980s and preferably older). Anything old is becoming coveted among collectors, with prices are rising every year.

Always look up.

The best parts of Paris are often high above the streetscapes. This was a scene on the Seine that I captured while walking back to the hotel one evening. Bookending three otherwise ordinary Parisian apartment buildings were two remarkable penthouses with amazing conservatories. It's these sorts of scenes that make up the architectural fabric of Paris. 

Don't miss the classics.

Even if you can't afford Chanel, still try to pop into the iconic Rue Cambon store. It's the flagship store and the only one that gives out white bags rather than black. The window displays are always chic, and the staff are lovely, so you won't feel intimidated. Spray some (free) Chanel No. 5 and embrace the joie of Paris.

Seek out the more unusual museums.

I love discovering Paris' secret museums, which are not only devoid of queues but often far more interesting than than their grander counterparts. My favourite is YSL's atelier (above), but you could also try the Carnavalet, the Mona Bismarck American Center, the Delacroix Museum and the Arts Decoratifs. There are many others, too, which I'll detail in the book.

Don't pack much in your luggage.

Again, this may seem obvious, but I still overpack, even after years of travelling, and then find I have no room for purchases! 

And lastly, separate your clothes and other things in your luggage using the new fabric and canvas packing bags that are starting to be sold everywhere (such as this one above). They're so innovative. They keep your clothes separate from your toiletries, so that if your white talcum powder and Chanel somehow end up loose from their containers, they won't leave a heartbreaking white powder on your favourite black Armani blazer! 

Lastly, if you need more room, try rolling your clothes (as the experts dictate) because it squeezes out all the air. 

Of course, you could simply take a little carry-on case and then buy another bag in Paris!

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